A. Lange & Söhne introduced the new Lange 1 with the L121.1 caliber at SIHH earlier this year. I thought it was time for a hands-on review of the Lange 1, so I asked for a pink gold version of the relatively young icon. As I wrote earlier this year, there are only a few differences between this new Lange 1 and its predecessor.
The size of the bezel is probably the first thing you’ll notice, as the new Lange 1 looks a bit larger than its predecessor. But that’s not the case. Fortunately, A. Lange & Söhne kept the case diameter to 38.5mm.
A Lange & Sohne Lange 1 Review
A. Lange & Söhne (as we know them today) is one of the most respected watch manufacturers on the planet. They’ve been making watches since 1994, but it’s amazing how much they’ve accomplished in those 18 years.
We’ll touch on this a bit below, but the holy trinity of haute horology—Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin, and Audemars Piguet—have actually become a quartet since 1994, or, according to some, a duet that includes Lange and one of the other three (your judgement).
Lange makes divine mechanical movements, and has done so since its relaunch. They produce just under 5,000 watches a year in the sleepy German town of Glashütte, and according to many, they are responsible for starting the trend of in-house design and manufacturing.
The Lange 1, the first of the ALS’s creations in 1994, featured a movement the likes of which the world had never seen before, and the mechanics were simply stunning.
Featuring a 72-hour power reserve and a movement made of German silver, the Lange 1’s offset dial was complemented by a “big date” complication activated by a pusher at 10 o’clock.
The Lange 1 put Lange at the top of the watch world, but Lange’s greatest contribution to the industry came in 1999. At Basel World 1999, the first truly in-house designed and manufactured chronograph in decades, Caliber 951, was unveiled, and found inside the remarkable Datograph.
Dial
One of the most unique in the industry, the Lange 1 dial is a disassembled assembly of the date, power reserve, seconds, and hours. In theory, all this should be messy and complex, but thanks to the brand’s respect for good design based on the mathematical principle of the golden ratio, the dial is very balanced. It’s also very German: a restrained model expressed in shades of gray.
This is a larger picture, but as expected from Lange, the dial holds up well to close scrutiny. The text is well-spaced, and the A. Lange & Söhne name is in slightly more delicate type on the 2015 version.
(That said, it’s a bit counterintuitive that the only English word on the dial is ‘Made in Germany’.) Another highlight of Lange’s attention to detail is the repetition of the triangle motif. This is most noticeable on the power reserve (Ab/Auf) indicator, but is also visible on the diamond indexes on the main dial and on the counterweight of the seconds hand.
Case
Like the dial, the seemingly simple face of the 38.5mm case hides its complexity. The bezel (which has been slimmed down in this update) is polished, while the middle section is brushed, giving the solid platinum case a much more casual look.
The lugs are actually screwed in so they can be removed when the case is refinished. It’s a clever touch that most people don’t bother with. With a few exceptions, Lange only makes watches in precious metals, and while it’s the most expensive, this platinum version is arguably the most versatile.
It’s harder than gold, so it’s less likely to scratch and has a more polished look. Another indication of how high Lange sets its standards is that precious metal cases that get scratched and need to be refinished are simply filled with new metal, so the weight of the watch remains the same. That’s what servicing is all about.
Movement
It’s pretty clear that the right way to wear a Lange 1 is with the movement facing outward. There’s so much to see, it’s a bit surprising considering most movements are hidden behind a traditional German 3/4 plate.
But the plate itself is great. Nickel silver (which patinas with age), with glass hütte living, jewels set in gold chatons, hand-blued screws. And of course, there’s the hand-engraved balance cock. A symbol of Lange quality. The Lange 1 dates back to 1994, but the 2015 update’s L121.1 movement is completely new.
It features a larger balance wheel and a new balance wheel with its own hairspring. The movement also boasts numerous improvements.
For example, the large date now changes immediately at midnight, and the seconds hand automatically stops at zero when the power reserve is depleted, allowing for more accurate timekeeping when resetting.
Lange also added an improved escapement with its own hairspring. All small changes, but they add up.
On the wrist
In a word: heavy. Seriously, the weight makes you never forget you’re wearing a platinum watch. And that’s not a bad thing, considering how clean and thoughtful this watch is. It’s very close to perfection.
That said, the Lange 1’s design, which is almost austere, is one of their more polarizing pieces. Unlike the crowd-pleasing Datograph, the Lange 1, with its modern and classic dial layout, is more for the taste of the more familiar. A sophisticated watch for sophisticated tastes.
Conclusion
Given the price range, it would be irresponsible for me to recommend someone to just go and buy it blindly. The good thing is that if someone is looking for something a little more classic, there’s always the yellow gold version of the Lange 1. I think this is the oldest and most classic version in the series.
Plus, with the surge in interest in watches over the past couple of years or so and the astronomical rise in price, my point here is that unlike a Rolex or Patek sports watch, most Lange pieces will depreciate in value if you decide to trade them in for something else.
I bought new because I knew what I was buying, but if in doubt, take your time and shop around to find a good deal. Fortunately, most Lange watches are readily available at most boutiques, so take your time when making your decision.